Como ocorre a inclusão de práticas sustentáveis na cadeia de fornecedores? Um estudo de caso de fornecedores de confecção no Brasil

Abstract

The textile, apparel, and fashion industries significantly contribute to global environmental pollution at all points of the supply chain. With stakeholders increasingly aware of the effects brought by these industries on climate and human rights, companies have been pressured to mitigate their environmental damage. In this perspective, current literature presents consistent studies regarding internal management transformations and supply chain management. As a result of these factors and pressures, literature exemplifies these efforts through the structuring of internal policies, codes of conduct, warnings, audits, and incentives for their suppliers to transition to a sustainable footprint. However, few studies delve into, from the supplier's perspective, the requirements for environmental improvement, factors driving the implementation of sustainable practices, and existing barriers. Thus, this research aims to understand how textile manufacturing suppliers can be more sustainable, placing suppliers' concerns and spectrum at the center of understanding. Among the results of this study, it was understood that only through government tax incentives, sustainability seals, active participation from unions and forums, and practical meetings on the topics can textile manufacturers mobilize more systematically towards sustainability. Additionally, it was observed that suppliers are monitored and audited for the implementation of sustainabilityfocused processes, while simultaneously improving their companies, they do not receive financial assistance for such efforts and are pressured for lower prices by the buyers of the focal companies. Thus, this research contributes to company managers and sourcing and sustainability departments in understanding the best paths to mobilize and incentivize suppliers to become more sustainable, as well as structuring strategies with buyers to assist in the implementation of these practices with suppliers. There are paths for the Brazilian clothing chain to become more sustainable, but collective efforts, buyer awareness, and fairer prices are needed.